Lake Balaton is Central Europe's largest freshwater lake — 77km long, 14km wide at its broadest, warm enough to swim in from May to September. In summer it becomes Hungary's de facto seaside. Off season it is quieter, more beautiful and entirely yours. This three day loop takes you around the whole thing.
Day 1 — Southern Shore
The southern shore is flatter, sandier and more resort-oriented. The water is shallower here which means it warms faster. Siófok is the hub — Hungary's beach party town full of life in summer. Head west along the shore through Zamárdi and Balatonföldvár towards Fonyód. Eat fresh fogás pike-perch at Fogas Csárda in Siófok — grilled with butter and dill.
Day 2 — Keszthely, Badacsony and Tihany
The south-western tip and northern shore are entirely different — hillier, greener, more scenic, with the best wine in the region. Keszthely is the most elegant town on the lake — Festetics Palace is worth two hours. Badacsony is the most dramatic wine stop — volcanic basalt vineyards above the lake. Tihany is the most photographed peninsula in Hungary.
Day 3 — Balatonfüred and Return
Balatonfüred is where 19th century Hungarian nobility came to take the waters. The promenade is lined with Classicist villas and old sanatoriums. A perfect morning walk before the drive home via Veszprém.
Practical Info
- Best months
- May–September for swimming. June for lavender in Tihany.
- Northern shore
- Better wine and scenery.
- Southern shore
- Better beaches.
- Booking
- July–August very busy — book 2–3 months ahead.
Ferry Tihany to Szántód runs May to September.