Tokaj is one of the world's great wine regions — and one of its least known outside Hungary. It was the first wine region anywhere in the world to be officially classified, in 1730, over a century before Bordeaux. The sweet Aszú wine it produces was prized by the courts of Louis XIV and Peter the Great. Today it is experiencing a renaissance — serious international investment, a new generation of winemakers and a growing reputation for dry Furmint that rivals the best white wines of France and Austria.
The Wines
Aszú is the legendary sweet wine — made from botrytis-affected grapes harvested one berry at a time. Rated in Puttonyos from 3 to 6 — the higher the number the sweeter and richer. A good 5 Puttonyos costs €20 to €40 at cellar door. Dry Furmint is increasingly exciting — high acid, mineral, long-lived. Szamorodni is a semi-dry style made without sorting — either sweet or dry depending on the vintage.
The Cellars
Disznókő produces some of the most consistent Aszú — French-owned, impeccably run, beautiful estate. Royal Tokaj was the pioneering foreign investment of the 1990s — still excellent. Oremus makes a magnificent Mandolás dry Furmint. For something more personal visit István Szepsy — widely considered Hungary's greatest winemaker.
When to Visit
September and October are the best months — harvest season, cellar doors open, the light on the vineyards is extraordinary. The Tokaj Harvest Days festival takes place in late September. Book accommodation months ahead.
Practical Info
- Getting there
- 2h 30m from Budapest by car via M3.
- Tasting etiquette
- Bring cash, spitting is fine, €5–€15 for 4–6 wines.
- What to buy
- One bottle of 5 Puttonyos Aszú and one dry Furmint.
- Best for first timers
- Royal Tokaj — English speaking staff, consistent wines.