Eger is the kind of city that makes you wish you had planned to stay longer. A Baroque old town, a medieval castle with an extraordinary military history, the northernmost surviving Ottoman minaret in Europe, thermal baths, and the Valley of Beautiful Women — a street of cave wine cellars that fills up on warm evenings with locals sharing Bikavér straight from the barrel. All of it in a city of 55,000 people that most international visitors never reach.
The Castle
Eger Castle sits on a dolomite cliff above the old town. In 1552 a garrison of just 2,000 Hungarian soldiers held it against an Ottoman army of 150,000 for 38 days — one of the great upsets in European military history. The castle museum tells the story well. The views from the walls over the Baroque rooftops are exceptional.
The Valley of Beautiful Women
Walk 15 minutes west from the main square and you reach Szépasszony-völgy — the Valley of Beautiful Women. A semicircular valley lined with cave wine cellars carved into the volcanic rock. Each one is run by a different wine producer. You walk from cellar to cellar tasting Egri Bikavér Bull's Blood, Egri Csillag white blend and whatever the owner is particularly proud of. On a warm evening it is one of the most convivial experiences in Hungary.
Getting There and Around
Eger is 1h 45m from Budapest by car via M3. By train approximately 2 hours from Keleti. The old town is entirely walkable — you do not need a car once you arrive. Stay at least two nights to do it justice.
Practical Info
- Don't miss
- Valley of Beautiful Women on a warm evening.
- Best castle visit time
- Morning before tour groups arrive.
- Wine to buy
- Egri Bikavér Superior from St Andrea or Gál Tibor.
- Thermal baths
- Eger Thermal Bath on Petőfi tér — good value and very local.